This friendly, modern Karoo village, only 280km from Cape Town, was almost entirely destroyed by a huge flood only a century after it started The town lies in a geologically fascinating area, steeped in history and tradition. It's a worthwhile and hospitable stop on the busy N1 highway through the Great Karoo
The warm welcome that awaits tourists in Laingsburg, dates
back to the mid-1700s. In those years farmers along the banks of the Buffels
River offered hospitality to adventurers brave enough to cross the mountains
and venture out onto the arid plains of the Great Karoo. In exchange for news
of Cape Town and the civilised world, as well as gossip garnered from other
farms along the way, these isolated farmers of the interior offered accommodation,
sustenance and fodder. Many early officials and explorers, such as Barrow, Lichtenstein,
De Mist and Swellengrebel, wrote of the people they met in what was later to
become the district of Laingsburg. They described the Karoo as "awesome, hot,
dry, and dusty. An inhospitable land peppered with friendly outspans, veritable
jewels in the desert."
At tiny homesteads dotted about on the vast plains travellers found fresh, drinking water, safe outspans, "a true welcome, homely hospitality and a nourishing meal." Many wrote that "such comforts were offered by God-fearing but brusque men, their shy women and hoards of children."
FOUNDING FAMILY
Many early travellers stayed with Stephanus Greeff, at the farm Fischkuil, near where Laingsburg today stands. These passers-by enjoyed talking with Stephanus and his wife Martha Maria , and listening to their great plans for developing the area. Greeff, considered to be the father of Laingsburg, played a major role in the establishment of the village. At his own expense he built a church. His house was a popular stop.
The earliest travellers praised men such as Greeff who opened their homes and hearts, provided food, shelter, fodder and and oft-times medical care to individual travellers and post coaches users.
EARLIEST CALLERS
Among the earliest callers was Hendrik Swellengrebel, whose father had for a time been one of the governors at the Cape. He returned to Holland with his family, but was unable to settle beneath the grey Dutch skies. He missed the African sunshine . So, he returned to the Cape and began exploring the hinterland. He wrote about his adventures and commissioned a friend to paint scenes, particularly in the Karoo, so that he could share its magnificence with people in Europe. In 1776 he described a dreadful drought in the Laingsburg area. It forced men to abandon their farms and move closer to civilisation. He wrote of the many abandoned farms and described the hardships faced by those who had sufficient courage to remain on the land.
SEVERE DROUGHT
In his report Swellengrebel stated that even the game had disappeared and at on one long stretch through the "Thouwsgebergte" (the mountains near present-day Touws River) and Matjiesfontein district the drought was so bad he saw only one "korhoen". He wrote of the weather, thunderstorms and floods, little realising that in 200 years time a town, built in this same area would be fighting for its life against the flood waters of the Buffels River . But, times were not always bad. In De Mist's writings he tells of a delightful five-day long hunt during which seven men in the party each shot 17 eland and a huge variety of other buck.
HOW IT ALL BEGAN
In 1862 Stephanus Greeff acquired the farm "Zoute Vlakte" (Salty Flats) . Today the town uses this farm as a source of water. Isolated graves near the old homestead record the passing of those who could travel no further. Among them was Margaret, the first wife of Henry Greene, who became civil commissioner at Colesberg. A devout woman, she became ill on one of the post coaches and had to stay over at Zoute Vlakte for medical attention. She died. A black granite tombstone marks her grave. It states she died as she lived "secure in her faith in The Lord." The farm had shade and fresh, drinking water. It soon developed into a popular stop. In 1879 Greeff acquired "Vischuil aan de Buffelsrivier" with the specific purpose of starting a settlement. At Greeff's request a portion of this farm was surveyed "for the establishment of a village". However, before this dream could become a reality a servitude being rerouted. Greeff appealed to John Laing, the commissioner for crown land and public works. He agreed to the rerouting.
JOKES RESULT IN A NAME CHANGE
For a short while the fledgeling village bore the same name as the farm. Later, the settlement was called Buffels River and, when the rail came, the name changed to Nassau to avoid confusion with East London's Buffalo River. Then the name was changed to honour John Laing, whose decision to move a servitude made the creation of a town a reality. For a while the town was called Laings Town. However, in local parlance "town" was pronounced "toon" and, as that was the Afrikaans word for "toe" jokes began to mushroom. A quick change resulted in the village being called Laingsburg before any jokes stuck.
DEVASTATED!
The first erven were sold on April l, 1880. Just over 100 years later, on January 25, 1981, Laingsburg was devastated by a flood. Within a few hours the whole town was under water and residents were fighting for their lives. It was a traumatic time during which 104 people lost their lives and only 21 houses were left standing. Highwater marks are indicated on lamp posts and in the Dutch Reformed Church, one of the few buildings that remained standing. Others were the railway station, Dutch Reformed church hall, the DRC Mission and the Lutheran Mission Churches, The Magistrates Court and Post Office, as well as a few private residences also survived. But almost all were badly damaged. Most tourists are astounded to learn how high the flood waters rose. Only the roofs of houses were visible. A video tape of the flood can be viewed at the library which also has a collection of photographs and press cuttings covering the devastation. The Voortrekker monument on the south side of the town was washed away. Later as all its blocks were recovered and it was rebuilt.
FASCINATING COLLECTION
In the Library Hall is a unique and intriguing collection of Africana and memorabilia. Known as the Wolfaardt Collection, it comprises items from the Bushmen, The Great Trek, and the Anglo-Boer War. There are also many ancient, as well as some modern weapons. There are 21 guns and rifles. Many are muzzle-loaders or "voorlaaiers", such as were used by the Voortrekkers. The collection also comprises early ethnic musical instruments, prehistoric carvings, cupping corns, household items and farm utensils. The collection was assembled by J B Wolfaardt, secretary to the School Board for 20 years.
GEOLOGIST'S DELIGHT
Laingsburg is situated on one of the most interesting geological outcrops in the Karoo. Because of this geologists, palaeontologists, researchers, students and lay people from all over the world visit the area. Many are fascinated by the single band of white quartz-like stone that runs like a chalk line between Matjiesfontein and Laingsburg and on into the Eastern Cape. It is said that the Bushmen used chips of this hard rock for axe heads. There is such a diversity of material in this area that at times several geological research teams can be found at work right on the outskirts of the town. Regular studies of the Karoo Super Group rocks and the Swartberg, part of the Cape folded mountain, are undertaken.
A FOSSIL RICH AREA
Much work has been done on marine and terrestrial fossils in the Laingsburg area. Many important specimens have been collected on farms in the district by researchers. Some of the oldest rocks in the Karoo are found here and there is also evidence of some ancient glaciers dating back to the days when the Karoo was a huge, humid swamp. The growing interest in geology has led to a geological walk being laid out on the farm, Geelbeksbrug, next to the Anglo-Boer War Blockhouse, 12km north of the town. Known as The Blockhouse Route, it is filled with fascinating rock formations and is popular among local as well as international visitors. Those who wish to become more closely acquainted with the Karoo may do a shorter walk - Discovering the Great Karoo - into the veld here under the guidance of farmer, Dries Swanepoel.
OUTDOOR ENTHUSIAST'S PARADISE
The Laingsburg area of the Great Karoo is, in fact, the ideal stop for outdoor enthusiasts. There are many trails within a short drive from town. The Anysberg Nature Reserve offers a two-day pony trail into the mountains, a walk through fynbos, abseiling and caving. Original farm buildings have been restored to accommodate groups.
Other hikes include the breathtaking 24-km Klipkraal Route along the crest of the Swartberg, the 16-km Verlorenhoek Trail, the six-hour Buffelsriverspoort and Swartberg Trails, as well as the Besemfontein Trails. It is possible to cross the Elandsberg and Swartberg and walk into Gamkaskloof, The Hell, from Rietvlei and Paddavlei farms. And, there is a pleasant walk through the scenic Seweweekspoort and there is a specific hike for birders, at Kraankop farm, and in the nearby beautiful Witteberg Mountains, outdoor enthusiasts can visit a protea farm.
DIVERSIFIED FARMING
Some farmers in the Laingsburg area offer accommodation to tourists en-route to the Klein Karoo, the popular Garden Route and South Cape Resorts, as well as to the Winelands and the popular Western Cape resorts. These farms are well worth a visit as most have excellent walks and rambles which allow visitors to become better acquainted with the Karoo. Farming comprises mainly meat, wool, mohair, fruit and seed cultivation, as well as some olive production. Flowers are also grown for export and the superb proteas from the Witteberge are almost always available at the curio shop, at the Laingsburg Country Hotel, and other some other stores in town.
ANGLO-BOER WAR LINK
Several incidents during the Anglo-Boer War are interwoven in the story of Laingsburg. The controversial Boer Commandant Gideon Scheepers, who led British forces such a merry dance, was captured in this area of the Karoo. There was a farmyard skirmish at Driefontein in the Seweweekspoort area and several British soldiers are buried in the local cemetery. Their headstones were washed away during the flood, but, in 1997, with the help of the National Monuments Council's War Graves Division, new headstones were erected. The blockhouse north of town was built by the British in 1901. It's lookout platforms provided an excellent view across the plains. Boer commandos were often spotted in these hills and further south in the Matjiesfontein area.
GRAVE STONE FOUND
Trooper Burton's gravestone was washed away with those of other soldiers during the 1981 flood which destroyed most of Lainsgburg. However, this memorial stone miraculously reappeared some years later. Many years after the flood, there were again heavy rains and once again a these torrents sent a swollen Buffels River hurtling through this Karoo. When the waters subsided townspeople were surprised to see Trooper Burton's gravestone had been washed up by the river. It was broken, but it was all there. So, it was carefully stored at the golf course until the War Graves Division of the National Monuments Council arranged for headstones to be replaced on the graves of the British soldiers. Trooper Burton's stone, the only original one in the cemetery stone was then laid flat on his grave and cemented into place.
BLOCKHOUSE - WELL-KNOWN LANDMARK
Another reminder of the Anglo-Boer War is the blockhouse on the N1, about 12km north of the town. Built by the British in 1901 to guard the bridge over the Geelbek River, this blockhouse was declared a National Monument in 1965. There are three other blockhouses in the vicinity. They were built to guard the bridges over the Dwyka River at Ketting and Dwyka stations. They can only be seen by travelling along a gravel road, which is often heavy going, as it is not always in good condition. There are two blockhouses at Dwyka station. They are "the twin towers of the Dwyka" referred to by Denys Reitz in his book "On Commando". The one at Ketting station was immortalised by Rudyard Kipling in his poem "Bridge Guard in the Karoo". Other National Monuments in this area of the Karoo are the beautiful stone Dutch Reformed Church in Laingsburg. It was proclaimed in 1995, and little village of Matjiesfontein, proclaimed in its entirety 1979.
FOR THE SPORTSMAN
Laingsburg offers many facilities for sports enthusiasts. One of the most popular annual events in the town's sporting calendar is the 80-km Karoo Marathon which passes through some of the most scenic spots in the area. A gruelling ultra marathon, normally run in September, it affords competitors the challenges of tarred as well as gravel surfaces. The route has been highly acclaimed by the more than 200 athletes who compete annually. The Floriskraal dam, 20-km south of town in a magnificent mountainous area, has facilities for water sports and angling. There are many excellent hikes in the area, facilities for abseiling, pony trekking, bird watching, picnics, walks and rambles. The town also has tennis courts, as well as rugby and cricket grounds.
Laingsburg Tourism Bureau
Laingsburg Library
Private Bag X4O BOX 56
LAINGSBURG
6900
SOUTH AFRICA
PHONE AND FAX: +27 (0)23 551 1019